North York Post-War Bungalows: Enlarging Living Room Windows
Too Long; Didn't Read
- The Trend: Turning small 1950s "sliver" windows into massive picture windows.
- The Law: Widening a masonry opening requires a City of Toronto Building Permit.
- The Structure: You must install a new Steel Angle Lintel to hold the brick veneer.
- The Cost: Approx $4,500 - $6,000 per opening (Cut + Structural + Window).
Answer First: If you own a bungalow in Downsview, Willowdale, or Don Mills, your living room likely has a small 8-foot wide "ranch style" window with a high sill. To install a modern floor-to-ceiling window, we must cut the structural brick wall. This requires a Structural Permit, a new Steel Lintel (Angle Iron) to support the roof load, and a new Limestone Sill. It is a major renovation, not a simple "retrofit."
The North York "Light Starvation"
Post-war bungalows (built 1945-1960) were designed for heating efficiency, not views. Windows were small and high up. Today, homeowners want light. Transitioning from a 4-foot tall window to an 8-foot tall window transforms the entire main floor. But you can't just knock out the bricks and slide a window in.
1. The Permit Process: "New or Enlarged Opening"
In Toronto, if you change the size of the opening, you need a permit. Why? The brick above the window is heavy. If you widen the hole, the existing support (lintel) isn't long enough. The bricks will fall. What You Need:
- Structural Drawing: Stamped by an engineer (BCIN qualified).
- Lintel Calculation: Proving the new steel beam can hold the load.
- Site Plan: Showing you aren't exceeding glass-to-wall ratios (limiting distance).
2. The Structural Cut: Engineering the Header
Most bungalows are "Brick Veneer." This means the wood frame holds the house up, but the brick holds itself up. The Steel Lintel:
- The Spec: Usually a 3.5" x 3.5" or 4" x 4" primed steel angle iron.
- Bearing: It must sit on at least 4 inches of solid brick on either side.
- Installation: We install the lintel before we remove the window to prevent partial collapse.
3. The Masonry Work: Brick vs. Stone
Once the structural steel is in, we cut the brick.
- Vertical Cut: We use a wet saw to create a clean "factory edge" on the existing brick.
- The Sill: The old brick sill is removed. We replace it with a modern Indiana Limestone Sill (heavy, grey, durable) or an Aluminum Flashing sill (sleek, black).
- Tooth-in: If we are narrowing a window (rare, but happens), finding matching 1950s "North York Red" brick is impossible. We usually recommend siding or stucco for the infill.
4. Window Design: 3-Lite vs. 1-Lite
Now that you have a massive opening (e.g., 10ft wide x 7ft high), what glass goes in?
- The Single Lite (Picture): One giant piece of glass.
- Pros: Stunning view. Uninterrupted.
- Cons: Expensive (requires 6mm tempered glass). Heavy (500lbs). No airflow.
- The 3-Lite Combo (Casement - Fixed - Casement):
- Pros: Great airflow on the sides. Cheaper glass.
- Cons: Two vertical posts block the view slightly.
- Transoms: Adding a row of windows above the main window to gain height without replacing the door header.
5. Cost Breakdown
"How much for the big window?"
- Drafting & Permit: $1,500
- Masonry Cut & Steel Install: $2,800 - $3,500
- Disposal (Brick/Concrete): $500
- The Window (Black Vinyl, Triple Pane): $2,500 - $4,000
- Total Project: $8,000 - $10,000+
- Compare: A simple "retrofit" (same size) is only ~$1,800.
6. Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How long does the hole stay open?
A: One Day. We prep the opening in the morning, install the lintel and buck frame by noon, and install the glass by 4 PM. We never leave your house open overnight.
Q: Can I widen the window all the way to the corner?
A: No. You need structural "shear wall" space. Usually, you need at least 24 inches of brick at the corner of the house for stability.
Q: Do I need tempered glass?
A: Maybe. If the glass is within 18 inches of the floor (which floor-to-ceiling windows are), the Ontario Building Code requires Tempered Safety Glass.
7. The Permit Drawings: What Consists a "Package"?
A permit application isn't just a form. You need architectural drawings. We provide:
- Existing Floor Plan: As-is layout.
- Proposed Floor Plan: The new window dimensions.
- Elevations: North/South/East/West views showing the new facade.
- Cross Section: Cutting through the wall to show the insulation, studs, brick tie, and the new lintel.
- Lintel Schedule: The engineer's stamp proving the steel size (e.g., L 3.5x3.5x1/4 LLV).
8. Structural Details: The Load Path
Why do we need a 4-inch bearing? Because 3 inches of brick can crush under point load.
- The Point Load: All the weight of the roof truss above the window is transferred to the lintel, then to the brick on the sides.
- Double Studs: Inside the wall, we also install "Jack Studs" and "King Studs" to carry the load down to the foundation. It's a dual-support system.
9. Masonry Restoration: The "Invisible Repair"
When you remove an old window, the brick edges are jagged. If you just slap mortar in, it looks terrible.
- Toothing: We carefully chisel out every half-brick to create a "stepped" pattern.
- Matching: We visit local brick yards (Kreitner, brampton Brick) to find a match for 60-year-old clay.
- Tinting: If the new mortar is too bright, we acid-wash or tint it to match the weathered grey of the original house.
10. Frequently Asked Questions (Continued)
Q: Will this make my house colder?
A: No. Old windows were R-1. New windows are R-5 (Triple Pane). Even though the glass area is bigger, the insulation value is 500% better. Plus, we spray foam the entire perimeter gap.
Q: Can I put a door there instead?
A: Yes. Converting a window to a patio door is the exact same structural process. We just cut the brick all the way to the floor.
Summary
The "North York Facelift" starts with the eyes of the house. Bigger windows mean better light, better resale value, and a modern look. Do it legally. Do it structurally.
Ready to Open Up? We handle the permit, the steel, and the glass. Check our Structural Alterations page.